Grade A Cashmere Explained: What It Means and What to Look For

Q: Why is fibre length important in cashmere?

Fibre length determines how well cashmere yarn holds together over time. Longer fibres produce stronger and more stable yarns that pill less, while shorter fibres are more prone to breakage and surface fuzziness.

Q: Does ply or gauge affect the quality of cashmere?

Yes, ply and gauge influence the durability and structure of cashmere knitwear. Higher ply constructions generally create stronger garments, while gauge affects knit density. Overall quality depends on the balance between fibre grade, ply, and construction.

February 1, 2026

By Oana, founder of Onika Knitwear

At Onika Knitwear, every cashmere piece begins with a single decision: fibre selection. We work exclusively with 100% Mongolian cashmere - one of the most prized origins in the world, where the extreme cold of the Mongolian plateau produces fibres of exceptional fineness and natural insulation. It is the most consequential choice in the entire process, because no amount of careful knitting or considered design can compensate for a fibre that was never good enough to begin with.

Cashmere is often described as the pinnacle of natural luxury. But in recent years, the market has become crowded with pieces sold at dramatically different price points, many of them labelled "Grade A cashmere" regardless of whether that standard has been honestly applied. For a buyer, this makes the decision genuinely difficult. A €60 cashmere sweater and a €300 one can look nearly identical on a hanger.

This guide exists to close that gap. It explains what Grade A cashmere actually means as a material standard, how fibre quality is measured, and what to look for when choosing a piece that will still feel beautiful three, five, or ten years from now — not just the first time you wear it.

What Is Grade A Cashmere?

“Grade A” refers to the finest quality category of cashmere fibre, based primarily on fibre diameter (microns) and fibre length.
While there is no single global authority enforcing cashmere grades, within the industry the following is widely accepted:

Grade A cashmere: approx. 14–15.5 microns, longer fibres
Grade B cashmere: approx. 16–19 microns
Grade C and below: thicker, shorter fibres, often coarser to the touch

The finer and longer the fibre, the softer, lighter, and more durable the finished knit will be.
In practice, the difference between Grade A and lower grades becomes obvious only after wearing a garment over time.

Why Microns Matter (More Than Almost Anything Else)

A micron is a unit of measurement describing the thickness of a single fibre.

Lower microns mean:

softer hand-feel
less irritation on the skin
more refined drape
a calmer, more luxurious surface

Grade A cashmere typically falls below 15 microns, which is why it feels exceptionally soft without being fragile.

However, softness alone is not enough.

Fibre Length: The Other Half of Quality

Two fibres can have the same micron count and still perform very differently.

Longer fibres:

spin into stronger yarns
pill less over time
maintain a cleaner surface
last longer with wear

Short fibres:

break more easily
cause excessive pilling
create a fuzzy or unstable surface

This is why some cashmere feels soft at first touch but looks worn after only a few wears.

Grade A cashmere is valued because it combines fine microns with sufficient fibre length - a balance that is difficult and costly to achieve.

Can the Same Goat Produce Both High and Low Quality Cashmere?

Yes - and this is an important point.

The quality of cashmere from a single goat can vary depending on:

which part of the undercoat the fibre comes from
the age of the goat
seasonal conditions
how carefully the fibres are collected and sorted

Only the finest, softest undercoat fibres are suitable for Grade A cashmere.

Lower grades often come from:

shorter fibres
less selective sorting
mixed-quality batches

This is why sorting and processing matter as much as geography.

Why “Affordable Premium Cashmere” Often Falls Short

In recent years, many brands have marketed “premium” or “Grade A” cashmere at surprisingly low prices. While this may sound appealing, it raises an important question:
If Grade A cashmere is rare and expensive to produce, how can it be sold cheaply at scale?

Often, the answer lies in:

looser grading definitions
shorter fibre lengths
blending grades while marketing the highest one
aggressive cost-cutting in processing
mass production that prioritises volume over refinement

These garments may feel soft initially, but they often:

pill quickly
lose shape
thin out over time
lack the calm, refined feel of true Grade A cashmere

Price alone doesn’t define quality - but exceptional cashmere cannot be inexpensive without compromise.

Does Ply Matter in Cashmere?

Yes - ply plays a major role in durability and feel. Ply refers to how many strands of yarn are twisted together.

In general:

Single-ply cashmere can feel very soft but may pill more
Two-ply (or more) offers better strength, balance, and longevity

High-quality cashmere knitwear often uses:

fewer but better fibres
thoughtful ply selection
construction designed to age gracefully

A good knit is always a balance between fibre quality, ply, and structure.

How to Identify Grade A Cashmere in Real Life

While you can’t measure microns at home, there are clear signs:

the surface looks calm and refined, not overly fuzzy
the fabric feels soft but resilient, not limp
the knit holds its shape after wearing
pilling is minimal and manageable
the brand is transparent about fibre sourcing and standards

True Grade A cashmere doesn’t try to impress loudly. It reveals itself over time.

Is Grade A Cashmere Worth It?

If you value:

exceptional softness without irritation
long-term wearability
refined drape and structure
fewer replacements over time
thoughtful, responsible sourcing

…then yes.

Grade A cashmere is not about status or trend - it’s about material integrity.

What Not to Do When Buying Cashmere

If you’re investing in cashmere, avoid these common mistakes:

Don’t rely on price alone
Expensive does not always mean high quality.

Don’t buy from vague product descriptions
If fibre origin, composition, or certifications aren’t clear, proceed carefully.

Don’t confuse “handmade” with “high-grade cashmere”
Craft matters - but fibre quality is the foundation.

Don’t ignore knit construction
A weak or overly loose knit often wears out faster.

Don’t treat cashmere as disposable fashion
The best cashmere is timeless, cared for, and worn often.

To identify truly premium cashmere, look for:

extraordinary softness that feels natural, not artificial
strong knit structure and elegant drape
pilling that remains minimal and manageable
transparent sourcing and fibre information
certifications that support traceability and standards (such as ICEA)

When cashmere is exceptional, you don’t just wear it - you feel it.

Discover Timeless Cashmere Knitwear

Onika Knitwear is a Salzburg-based knitwear atelier specialising in artisanal, small-batch pieces crafted from certified natural fibres.

At Onika Knitwear, we use premium yarns selected for their quality, traceability, and longevity, including ICEA-certified Grade A cashmere, RMS-certified mohair, and responsibly sourced wool and alpaca that meet recognised standards such as RWS, GOTS, and OEKO-TEX®.

Each piece is designed and handmade with a focus on material integrity, timeless design, and long-term wear.

Explore the Cashmere Collection or visit the Care Guide for detailed guidance on washing, storing, and maintaining natural knitwear.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Grade A cashmere?

Grade A cashmere is the finest quality category of cashmere fibre, defined by a low micron count (typically 14 to 15.5 microns) and longer fibre length.
This combination results in a softer, lighter, and more durable knit that maintains its structure and pills less over time.

What do microns mean in cashmere?

Microns measure the thickness of a single cashmere fibre.
Lower micron values indicate finer fibres, which feel softer on the skin and create a more refined, lightweight fabric. Grade A cashmere typically falls below 15.5 microns.

Why is fibre length important in cashmere?

Fibre length determines how well the yarn holds together over time.
Longer fibres produce stronger, more stable yarns that pill less and maintain a cleaner surface, while shorter fibres are more prone to breakage and fuzziness.

Does Grade A cashmere pill over time?

Yes, even high-quality cashmere can pill slightly during the initial wearing period.
This happens as loose surface fibres are released. With longer, higher-quality fibres, pilling stabilises quickly and becomes minimal over time.

Does ply or gauge affect the quality of cashmere?

Yes, ply and gauge both influence the performance and durability of cashmere knitwear.
Higher ply constructions generally create stronger, more stable garments, while gauge affects the density and structure of the knit. Quality depends on balancing fibre grade, ply, and construction rather than any single factor.

What is baby cashmere and is it the same as Grade A?

Baby cashmere refers to fibres collected from the first combing of young goats, making it exceptionally fine and soft.
It is not the same as Grade A cashmere, which is defined by fibre measurements such as micron and length. While baby cashmere can be extremely soft, it is a different classification based on origin rather than grading.