How to Identify High-Quality Mohair (and Avoid Cheap Alternatives)

How to Identify High-Quality Mohair (and Avoid Cheap Alternatives)

Mohair has a kind of beauty that feels effortless - light yet warm, airy yet protective, and finished with a soft halo that makes even the simplest silhouette look refined.

But if you’ve ever shopped for mohair knitwear, you’ve likely noticed something confusing: two “mohair” pieces can look similar online, yet feel completely different in real life. One may be luminous and soft for years. Another may shed heavily, feel scratchy, or lose its shape after only a few wears.

So how do you identify high-quality mohair - and avoid cheap alternatives priced as luxury?

This guide explains what to look for, what to avoid, and why mohair quality is as much about fibre standards and sourcing as it is about softness.

What Makes Mohair Unique?

Mohair is often considered one of the most elegant and feminine natural fibres.

It has a lightness and luminosity that instantly elevates a silhouette, even when the design is simple.

Mohair comes from the Angora goat and is valued for its unique combination of qualities:

  • natural warmth without heaviness
  • a soft halo (fluffiness)
  • beautiful light reflection (a subtle, refined sheen)
  • long-lasting resilience
  • excellent drape and movement

And unlike many winter fibres, mohair can also be worn all year round - layered lightly on cool spring mornings, as an airy summer evening knit, and as a warm essential during autumn and winter.

The Truth: Not All “Mohair” Is the Same

Mohair varies dramatically depending on:

  • fibre fineness
  • hair length and uniformity
  • how the yarn is spun
  • what it’s blended with
  • the finishing process
  • the quality of knitting/construction

In other words: a label may say “mohair,” but the experience can range from extraordinary to disappointing.

5 Ways to Recognise High-Quality Mohair

1) The halo should look soft - not messy

One of the signatures of mohair is its halo (fluffiness). But quality matters:

 High-quality mohair halo:
  • airy and even
  • soft-looking, never “wild”
  • refined and luminous
Cheap mohair halo:
  • overly fuzzy and chaotic
  • uneven (patchy or frizzy)
  • prone to matting quickly


A beautiful halo should feel intentional - like part of the design, not a side effect of poor fibre.

2) It should feel light, not dense or heavy

Mohair is known for warmth with airiness.

Premium mohair knitwear often feels:

  • featherlight on the body
  • warm without weight
  • breathable

Cheaper alternatives may feel heavy because of:

  • tight, stiff yarn
  • less refined blends
  • synthetic content that changes the hand-feel
  • bulkier construction

The most luxurious mohair doesn’t “sit” on you—it floats.

3) Shedding: a little is normal, but heavy shedding is a warning sign

A small amount of shedding can happen - especially in new mohair pieces or during the first few wears. However, excessive shedding is often linked to lower-quality fibre or rough finishing.

A well-made mohair piece should:

  • shed minimally over time
  • keep its surface stable
  • stay elegant after repeated wear

If a garment sheds heavily from the beginning or continuously leaves fibres everywhere, it may not be a long-term piece.

4) It shouldn’t feel overly prickly

Mohair can feel different from cashmere—it has more “lift” and texture—but high-quality mohair should still feel pleasant against the skin.

If mohair feels very itchy, it can be caused by:

  • lower-grade fibre
  • inconsistent sorting
  • harsh processing
  • or a blend that doesn’t support softness

Many women love mohair when worn with a light layer underneath, but a premium yarn should still feel refined and comfortable.

5) Look at composition: the blend matters

Many premium mohair knits are blended with silk or fine natural fibres to improve:

  • durability
  • softness
  • drape
  • halo stability

What to avoid:

  • vague fibre information
  • blends that feel “plastic” or overly stretchy
  • low mohair percentages presented as luxury

High-end mohair knitwear is transparent: it tells you what it is - and why.

Synthetic blends in mohair explained:

Nylon (polyamide)- often the “best” synthetic in a blend. A small percentage of nylon can improve:

  • durability (less breakage)
  • abrasion resistance (better for everyday wear)
  • shape stability

Good use case: a thin mohair knit that needs strength
Typical amount: ~5–20%

Polyester - can add stability and reduce cost. Polyester can help a garment keep its shape and dry faster. But it can also reduce breathability and feel less refined.

Good use case: structured knitwear or mass-market pieces
Risk: can feel “plastic” and trap heat

Acrylic - usually the lowest-quality choice. Acrylic is often used because it’s cheap and can imitate softness at first touch.

Downsides:

  • tends to pill more
  • can feel less breathable
  • doesn’t age as beautifully
  • often loses the luxury hand-feel quickly

Is 30% mohair “good”?

It depends what you want: 30% mohair can be fine if the goal is:

  • a more affordable sweater
  • less delicate wear
  • easier maintenance
  • a “hint” of halo rather than full mohair luxury

In many cases, 30% mohair is used mainly for marketing (to put “mohair” on the label) while the garment behaves more like a synthetic knit.

The real issue is not “synthetics are bad”. It’s this:
Low mohair percentage + high price + luxury messaging

Discover Artisan Mohair Knitwear, Handmade in Salzburg

Explore our Mohair Collection - handmade in small batches from premium certified natural yarns.

For washing, drying, and long-term tips, visit our Care Guide.

Related Mohair Guides

How to Clean A Mohair Sweater
How to fluff mohair after washing
Mohair Material Guide
Mohair in Accessories: Elegance and Longevity

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