Cashmere Pilling: Why It Happens and How to Remove It Safely

By Oana, founder of Onika Knitwear

At Onika Knitwear, one of the questions we hear most often from customers is about pilling.

It appears on a new sweater after just a few wears, and the immediate reaction is worry - did something go wrong?

The answer, almost always, is no. But understanding why pilling happens, and what it tells you about your cashmere, makes it much easier to wear your knitwear with confidence rather than anxiety.

This guide explains cashmere pilling clearly and honestly, so you know what to expect - and what to look for when choosing knitwear that lasts.

What Is Cashmere Pilling?

Pilling refers to the small fibre balls that form on the surface of knitwear, usually in areas exposed to friction. Cashmere fibres are extremely fine and soft. When worn, loose fibre ends work their way to the surface, where they tangle together and form pills.

Importantly: pilling is not damage. It is a natural phase in the life of a cashmere garment.

However, with so many cheaper cashmere alternatives on the market, it can be difficult to know whether your piece is pilling because that is simply what cashmere does - or because the fibre quality was never high enough to begin with. That distinction matters, and this guide will help you read the difference.

Why Does Cashmere Pill?

Pilling happens for three main reasons: fibre movement, friction, and fibre length and construction.

1. Fibre movement
Cashmere is made from fine, flexible fibres. During wear, movement allows shorter or looser fibres to migrate to the surface, where they catch and tangle.

2. Friction
Areas exposed to repeated friction are most prone to pilling: under the arms, inner elbows, sides of the torso, and anywhere a bag strap or scarf rubs against the fabric. This is why pilling often appears early, even on new garments.

3. Fibre length and construction
Shorter fibres pill more easily than longer ones. Yarn construction, ply, and finishing also influence how pills form and how they behave over time. Of all these factors, fibre length and diameter are the ones most directly controlled by the quality of the raw cashmere itself.

At Onika Knitwear, we use only premium cashmere, including ICEA-certified Grade A cashmere with a fibre diameter under 16 microns and a staple length above 36mm. Longer, finer fibres anchor more securely in the yarn structure, which is why our pieces pill significantly less than mass-market cashmere - and why pilling, when it does occur, stabilises quickly rather than worsening.

Does High-Quality Cashmere Pill?

Yes - and this surprises many people. High-quality cashmere can pill, especially during the first weeks of wear. In fact, very fine cashmere sometimes pills more initially than coarser fibres, precisely because the fibres are so soft and the yarn allows natural movement.

What distinguishes quality cashmere is not whether it pills, but how pilling behaves over time.

What Pilling Tells You About Quality

Signs of quality cashmere:

• Pills appear early, then reduce steadily with wear
• The surface becomes calmer and smoother over time
• Fibres release cleanly when removed
• The garment retains its shape, softness, and structure throughout

Signs that may indicate lower quality cashmere:

• Continuous heavy pilling that never settles or reduces
• Pills that feel hard, rough, or synthetic
• Thinning fabric visible underneath the pills
• Loss of structure or elasticity alongside the pilling

Pilling in quality cashmere is temporary and manageable. In lower quality cashmere, it tends to be ongoing and progressive.

Can You Prevent Cashmere from Pilling?

You cannot prevent pilling entirely, but you can reduce it and manage how quickly the settling period passes.

What helps:

• Wearing your cashmere regularly - this actually accelerates the natural fibre-shedding process
• Allowing garments to rest between wears rather than wearing the same piece every day
• Avoiding friction from rough bag straps, textured outerwear, or heavy scarves
• Washing gently and infrequently, following the method in our Cashmere Care Guide

Over time, loose surface fibres shed naturally, leaving a smoother, more settled surface.

How to Remove Cashmere Pills Safely

Removing pills is straightforward when done correctly. Aggressive or impatient methods can damage the knit permanently, so technique matters.

The safest method:

• Lay the garment completely flat on a clean surface
• Use a cashmere comb or fabric shaver specifically designed for delicate fibres
• Work slowly and gently in one direction
• Never pull pills off by hand - this strains the yarn and can create holes over time

When done carefully and regularly, de-pilling genuinely improves the appearance of cashmere and helps it age beautifully. Many well-kept cashmere pieces look better at five years than they did at five months.

Why Some Cashmere Pills Less Than Others

Two cashmere sweaters can behave very differently even if they look similar on a hanger. The factors that determine pilling behaviour are:

• Fibre length: longer fibres pill significantly less
• Fibre diameter: finer fibres under 16–19 microns produce a more stable yarn structure
• Yarn ply and construction: how the yarn is spun and how the garment is knitted
• Finishing and washing processes used in production
• How the garment is worn and cared for by the owner

This is why fibre specification - not just the label "cashmere" - is what separates a piece that lasts a decade from one that deteriorates after a season.

The Long-Term View

Well-made cashmere goes through a short settling period. After the initial wears and first careful wash, excess fibres release, the surface becomes smoother, the knit feels even softer, and the garment stabilises into the piece it will remain for years.

This settling process is one of the quiet signs of quality. It is not a problem to solve - it is cashmere behaving exactly as it should.

Final Thought

Pilling is not a flaw. It is a natural part of wearing fine cashmere, and understanding it changes how you relate to your knitwear entirely.

With thoughtful care and gentle maintenance, a good cashmere piece becomes calmer, softer, and more beautiful over time. The goal is not to avoid pilling - it is to choose cashmere whose pilling tells you something good.

Onika Knitwear is a Salzburg-based knitwear atelier focused on crafting small-batch pieces from certified natural fibres. At Onika Knitwear, fibre selection is central - using premium yarns including ICEA-certified Grade A cashmere with full traceability and high-quality standards.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does pure cashmere pill more than blends?

Pure cashmere can pill initially due to fibre softness, but it settles better over time than low-quality blends. A cashmere blend using short, coarse fibres will often pill more persistently than pure high-grade cashmere.

How often should I remove pills?

Only when needed - typically every few wears during the settling period, then less frequently as the surface stabilises. Over-de-pilling can stress the fabric unnecessarily.

Should I avoid wearing cashmere to prevent pilling?

No. Regular wear actually helps loose fibres release and stabilise the surface more quickly. Leaving a cashmere piece unworn for long periods does not prevent pilling when you eventually wear it.

Are fabric shavers safe for cashmere?

Yes, provided they are designed for delicate fibres and used gently on a completely flat surface. Avoid cheap or high-speed shavers designed for robust fabrics.

Does washing increase pilling?

Improper washing can. Agitation, heat, and wringing accelerate fibre migration. Gentle hand washing with minimal movement protects the fibres and helps the garment settle correctly.

Related Cashmere Guides

Grade A Cashmere Explained: What It Means and What to Look For

How to Tell If Your Cashmere Is Worth the Price: A Buyer's Guide

Cashmere vs Wool vs Alpaca vs Mohair: Which Luxury Fibre Is Right for You?

Cashmere Capsule Wardrobe: Timeless Essentials for Effortless Dressing