Grade A Cashmere Explained: What It Means and What to Look For
Cashmere is often described as the pinnacle of natural luxury - but in recent years, the term Grade A cashmere has appeared everywhere, across a wide range of prices and qualities.
This has left many customers wondering: What does Grade A actually mean? Is it truly better? And how can you tell if it’s worth the price?
As a designer who works closely with premium cashmere yarns, I’ve learned that Grade A cashmere is not a marketing label - it’s a material standard.
But like all standards, it only has value when it’s used honestly and supported by transparency.
This guide explains what Grade A cashmere really is, how it’s graded, where it comes from, and how to recognise it in real life.
For a deeper look at the fibre itself, see our Cashmere Material Guide.
What Is Grade A Cashmere?
“Grade A” refers to the finest quality category of cashmere fibre, based primarily on fibre diameter (microns) and fibre length.
While there is no single global authority enforcing cashmere grades, within the industry the following is widely accepted:
- Grade A cashmere: approx. 14–15 microns, longer fibres
- Grade B cashmere: approx. 16–18 microns
- Grade C and below: thicker, shorter fibres, often coarser to the touch
The finer and longer the fibre, the softer, lighter, and more durable the finished knit will be.
In practice, the difference between Grade A and lower grades becomes obvious only after wearing a garment over time.
Why Microns Matter (More Than Almost Anything Else)
A micron is a unit of measurement describing the thickness of a single fibre.
Lower microns mean:
- softer hand-feel
- less irritation on the skin
- more refined drape
- a calmer, more luxurious surface
Grade A cashmere typically falls below 15 microns, which is why it feels exceptionally soft without being fragile.
However, softness alone is not enough.
Fibre Length: The Other Half of Quality
Two fibres can have the same micron count and still perform very differently.
Longer fibres:
- spin into stronger yarns
- pill less over time
- maintain a cleaner surface
- last longer with wear
Short fibres:
- break more easily
- cause excessive pilling
- create a fuzzy or unstable surface
This is why some cashmere feels soft at first touch but looks worn after only a few wears.
Grade A cashmere is valued because it combines fine microns with sufficient fibre length - a balance that is difficult and costly to achieve.
Can the Same Goat Produce Both High and Low Quality Cashmere?
Yes - and this is an important point.
The quality of cashmere from a single goat can vary depending on:
- which part of the undercoat the fibre comes from
- the age of the goat
- seasonal conditions
- how carefully the fibres are collected and sorted
Only the finest, softest undercoat fibres are suitable for Grade A cashmere.
Lower grades often come from:
- shorter fibres
- less selective sorting
- mixed-quality batches
This is why sorting and processing matter as much as geography.
Why “Affordable Premium Cashmere” Often Falls Short
In recent years, many brands have marketed “premium” or “Grade A” cashmere at surprisingly low prices. While this may sound appealing, it raises an important question:
If Grade A cashmere is rare and expensive to produce, how can it be sold cheaply at scale?
Often, the answer lies in:
- looser grading definitions
- shorter fibre lengths
- blending grades while marketing the highest one
- aggressive cost-cutting in processing
- mass production that prioritises volume over refinement
These garments may feel soft initially, but they often:
- pill quickly
- lose shape
- thin out over time
- lack the calm, refined feel of true Grade A cashmere
Price alone doesn’t define quality - but exceptional cashmere cannot be inexpensive without compromise.
Does Ply Matter in Cashmere?
Yes - ply plays a major role in durability and feel. Ply refers to how many strands of yarn are twisted together.
In general:
- Single-ply cashmere can feel very soft but may pill more
- Two-ply (or more) offers better strength, balance, and longevity
High-quality cashmere knitwear often uses:
- fewer but better fibres
- thoughtful ply selection
- construction designed to age gracefully
A good knit is always a balance between fibre quality, ply, and structure.
How to Identify Grade A Cashmere in Real Life
While you can’t measure microns at home, there are clear signs:
- the surface looks calm and refined, not overly fuzzy
- the fabric feels soft but resilient, not limp
- the knit holds its shape after wearing
- pilling is minimal and manageable
- the brand is transparent about fibre sourcing and standards
True Grade A cashmere doesn’t try to impress loudly. It reveals itself over time.
Is Grade A Cashmere Worth It?
If you value:
- exceptional softness without irritation
- long-term wearability
- refined drape and structure
- fewer replacements over time
- thoughtful, responsible sourcing
…then yes.
Grade A cashmere is not about status or trend - it’s about material integrity.
Discover Timeless Cashmere Knitwear
Explore the Cashmere Collection - handmade in small batches from Grade A cashmere.
For washing, storage, and long-term care, visit our Care Guide.
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