Cashmere Pilling: Why It Happens and How to Remove It Safely
Cashmere is loved for its softness, warmth, and refined feel - but it’s also a fibre that often raises questions.
One of the most common is pilling.
If you’ve ever noticed small balls forming on the surface of a cashmere sweater, you may have wondered: Is this normal? Does it mean the quality is poor? And can it be prevented?
The short answer: pilling is natural - even in high-quality cashmere.
What matters is why it happens, how it behaves over time, and how you care for it.
This guide explains cashmere pilling clearly and honestly, so you know what to expect and how to keep your knitwear looking beautiful.
What Is Cashmere Pilling?
Pilling refers to the small fibre balls that appear on the surface of knitwear, usually in areas exposed to friction.
Cashmere fibres are extremely fine and soft.
When worn, loose fibre ends can work their way to the surface, where they tangle together and form pills.
Importantly: pilling is not damage. It’s a natural phase in the life of a cashmere garment.
Why Does Cashmere Pill?
Pilling happens for three main reasons:
1. Fibre movement
Cashmere is made from fine, flexible fibres. During wear, movement allows shorter or looser fibres to migrate to the surface.
2. Friction
Areas exposed to repeated friction are most prone to pilling:
- under the arms
- inner elbows
- sides of the torso
- where bags or scarves rub
This is why pilling often appears early, even on new garments.
3. Fibre length and construction
Shorter fibres pill more easily than longer ones. Yarn construction, ply, and finishing also influence how pills form and release over time.
Does Good Quality Cashmere Pill?
Yes - high-quality cashmere can pill, especially at the beginning. In fact, very soft, fine cashmere often pills more initially than coarser fibres because:
- the fibres are finer
- the hand-feel is gentler
- the yarn allows natural movement
What distinguishes quality cashmere is how pilling behaves over time.
Does Pilling Mean Low Quality?
Pilling doesn't mean low quality.
What does indicate quality cashmere:
- Pills appear early, then reduce over time
- The surface becomes calmer with wear
- Fibres release cleanly when removed
- The garment retains shape and softness
What may indicate lower quality cashmere:
- Continuous heavy pilling that never settles
- Pills that feel hard or synthetic
- Thinning fabric underneath
- Loss of structure or elasticity
Pilling should be temporary and manageable, not ongoing and excessive.
Can You Prevent Cashmere from Pilling?
You can’t prevent pilling entirely, but you can reduce and manage it. What helps:
- Wearing your cashmere regularly (yes, really)
- Allowing garments to rest between wears
- Avoiding constant friction from rough bags or straps
- Washing gently and infrequently
Over time, loose fibres naturally shed, leaving a smoother, more stable surface.
How to Remove Cashmere Pills Safely
Removing pills correctly is essential - aggressive methods can damage the knit. The safest method:
- Lay the garment flat
- Use a cashmere comb or fabric shaver designed for delicate fibres
- Work gently in one direction
- Never pull pills by hand
When done carefully, de-pilling actually improves the appearance of cashmere and helps it age gracefully. For more detailed guidance, see our Care Guide.
Why Some Cashmere Pills Less Than Others
Several factors influence pilling behaviour:
- fibre length (longer fibres pill less)
- yarn quality and ply
- how the garment is knitted
- finishing and washing processes
- how it’s worn and cared for
This is why two cashmere sweaters can behave very differently, even if they look similar at first.
The Long-Term View: Cashmere That Settles
Well-made cashmere often goes through a short “settling period.” After initial wear and gentle care:
- excess fibres release
- the surface becomes smoother
- the knit feels even softer
- the garment stabilises
This is one of the quiet signs of quality.
Final Thought
Pilling is not a flaw - it’s a natural part of wearing fine cashmere.
With thoughtful care and gentle maintenance, a good cashmere piece becomes calmer, softer, and more beautiful over time.
Understanding this allows you to wear your knitwear with confidence, not caution.
FAQ:Cashmere Pilling
Does pure cashmere pill more than blends?
Pure cashmere can pill initially due to fibre softness, but it often settles better over time than low-quality blends.
How often should I remove pills?
Only when needed. Over-de-pilling can stress the fabric.
Should I avoid wearing cashmere to prevent pilling?
No. Regular wear actually helps loose fibres release and stabilise the surface.
Are fabric shavers safe for cashmere?
Yes, if designed for delicate fibres and used gently on a flat surface.
Does washing increase pilling?
Improper washing can. Gentle hand washing and minimal agitation help protect the fibres.
Related Cashmere Guides
Grade A Cashmere Explained: What It Means and What to Look For
How to Distinguish High-Quality Cashmere from Cheap Alternatives
